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Buying a jamdani saree from India when you live abroad

The famous Dhakai jamdani is Bangladeshi. What an Indian shop can sell you is Bengal jamdani from the Nadia towns, or Uppada jamdani from Andhra, and both are worth buying.

Yes — you can buy jamdani sarees from Indian shops even if they do not deliver to your country. India Rabbit gives you a free delivery address in India. You order to that address as an ordinary domestic customer, we receive and hold the parcel free for 30 days, combine it with anything else you buy, and forward the lot to you.

Why this is hard to buy where you are

Start with the thing most listings blur. The traditional art of jamdani weaving was inscribed by UNESCO in 2013 and the GI for Jamdani Sari is held by Bangladesh, granted in 2016 as that country's first. India's own jamdani GI is Uppada Jamdani, from Uppada village and Tatiparthi in Kakinada district, Andhra Pradesh, where there are roughly 3,000 looms and the cloth is silk rather than muslin. Bengal weaves it too, in the handloom towns of Nadia district and around Santipur. So a shop in India can sell you a genuine jamdani, just not a Dhakai one, and the honest sellers say which they have. The technique is the same either way: a standard weft makes a sheer base, and the motifs are a supplementary weft put in by hand with fine bamboo sticks, counted off a drawing laid beneath the warp rather than printed on the cloth. The places that sell it closest to source are state handloom co-operatives, and they are built for domestic delivery.

Where to buy it

ShopWhat they are good for
TantujaA Government of West Bengal enterprise, the state handloom weavers' co-operative, listing jamdani in both cotton and linen alongside Tangail, Dhaniakhali and Begampuri. As close to the Bengal looms as online buying gets.
Biswa BanglaThe online store of Paschim Banga Marketing Corporation, the state marketing corporation, with jamdani in its festive handloom range next to Baluchari, Santipuri and Tangail.
indiahandmade.comAn initiative of the Ministry of Textiles that sells direct from weavers and artisans, with its own GI-tagged section.
Amazon.in and MyntraThe widest range and where individual weavers and small Bengal houses list, at the cost of having to read descriptions carefully. If any of these cannot deliver to your country, your Indian address makes it a domestic order.

State handloom co-operatives are set up for customers in Kolkata and Kakinada, not for overseas orders. Your Indian address removes the question entirely and puts you on the same footing as a buyer in West Bengal.

What to check before you order

  • Decide which jamdani you mean before you compare prices. Dhakai is Bangladeshi. Bengal jamdani from Santipur and the Nadia towns is fine cotton. Uppada jamdani from Andhra is silk. They are three different garments at three different prices and the word on the label is the same.
  • Turn it over and look at the back between the motifs. Because the motif is a supplementary weft inserted by hand, each one sits as a discrete island with no long thread carried across the reverse to the next motif. A jacquard or powerloom copy carries those floats and they get trimmed, which leaves cut ends and a faint fuzz between motifs.
  • The ground should be sheer. Real jamdani is a muslin you can see light through, and the motif area is noticeably thicker than the base. A heavy opaque cloth with a jamdani-style pattern is something else.
  • A cotton jamdani priced like a printed saree is a printed saree. The hand work is weeks of it, and that floor does not move.
  • Allow real time for a specific piece. Uppada's own account of the work is a week to a fortnight at the loom, and up to sixty days for the full process, so the good pieces are woven rather than warehoused.

Weight, customs and getting it here intact

Weight

A cotton jamdani with its blouse piece is usually 400 to 600g, and the Uppada silk pieces are lighter again. Three or four fit comfortably in one consolidated box, which is where the saving is: one box of four costs far less than four parcels.

Volume

Sarees fold flat and are dense enough that volumetric weight almost never governs, unlike most clothing orders.

Customs

Textiles are among the more straightforward categories almost everywhere, but duty follows the declared value and your country's threshold. Cotton and silk are often treated differently. Your destination page carries what we hold for your country. Check what your destination allows.

Condition

Muslin creases and the supplementary motif threads can snag on a rough surface. Each saree is wrapped alone in tissue and photographed before it ships, and a press on arrival is normal rather than a sign of damage.

Work out the exact cost to your country

Questions

Is jamdani Indian or Bangladeshi?

Both weave it, and the labels matter. Bangladesh holds the geographical indication for Jamdani Sari, granted in 2016, and UNESCO inscribed the traditional art of jamdani weaving in 2013. India has its own GI for Uppada Jamdani in Andhra Pradesh, and Bengal weaves jamdani in the handloom towns of Nadia district. We forward from India, so what you can buy through us is the Indian cloth rather than a Dhakai piece.

What is Uppada jamdani?

The Andhra version, from Uppada village and Tatiparthi in Kakinada district, where around 3,000 looms work. It uses the same supplementary weft technique but in silk rather than muslin, which makes it lighter than a Kanchipuram or Dharmavaram silk and gives it a different drape and price.

How do I tell handwoven from powerloom?

Look at the reverse between the motifs. Handwoven jamdani has no long thread carried across the back from one motif to the next, because each motif is placed by hand. A machine copy carries those floats and then cuts them, which shows as trimmed ends and fuzz. Hold the ground up to light too: it should be sheer, with the motif area thicker.

Will it reach me if the shop does not ship abroad?

Yes. You order to the free Indian address we give you, which is a domestic delivery as far as the shop is concerned, and we forward the parcel to you. Whether the shop itself ships internationally stops being relevant.

Can I combine several sarees in one shipment?

Yes, and for a wedding or a family order it is the sensible way to do it. Everything comes to the same Indian address, waits free for thirty days while the rest arrives, and ships as one consignment.

Order it like you live in Kerala

Your free Indian address takes a minute to set up and works on your very next order. We hold parcels free for 30 days so you can combine them into one box.

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